• Teaching Your Dog To Like The Dumbbell
• 10 Commandments of Good Dog Training
• Eye Contact and Dominance
• Is Your Dog TOO Bonded To You?
• How Your Dog Trains You
• Establishing Yourself As Pack Leader
• Showing Your Rottweiler
• Preparing for the BH
• New Title Offered:  Versatile Companion Dog (VCD)
• Thoughts on Desensitization & Aggression
• Pylon heeling

Teaching Your Dog To Like The Dumbbell Most trainers agree that you should start your dog young with a dumbbell if you have any plans to do advanced obedience work.

Games such as simply playing with a rope tug with your dog while encouraging the dog to get their rope tug (aka ‘dumbbell’) and bring it back are helpful.

Other breeders start even earlier…in the whelping box… at about 5 weeks, utilizing small plastic dumbbells normally sized for a small breed.   The competitive nature of a litter tends to make them all want the dumbbell and they will learn quickly that if they hold it by the middle, none of their littermates can take it away.  Give only one dumbbell at a time, so if the pup puts it down, someone else will grab it up.  Pups grow up loving their dumbbells.

For older dogs, another method is introducing the dumbbell by having the dog lie on the floor and then giving it a tummy rub and some attention.  Put the dumbbell in the dog’s mouth and gently hold the mouth closed over the dumbbell with your right hand while rubbing the dogs tummy with your left hand, with much cooing verbal praise. Continue this for a few brief seconds and then take the dumbbell out of dogs mouth, and stop the cuddling and cooing. Very gradually over a month, build up the time, just doing it a few times a day. The dog should quickly build up a very positive association with the dumbbell in mouth, associating it with their tummy rub and your attention.

10 Commandments of Good Dog Training

1. Love and respect your dog.

2. Working has to be fun for both the owner and the dog.

3. Never work when you are tired or in a bad mood.

4. Never work when your dog is tired or not well.

5. Always prepare your work. Think first.

6. Never ask too much of your dog. He who goes slow, will be fast.

7. If the order is not executed, try to find the fault in you and not in your dog.

8. The dog does not speak our words nor has he got our rules of life.

9. Be free and generous with your rewards and spare with your punishments. Punishments have to be mental never physical.

10. Remember; God created Man and when he saw him so weak, he gave him the Dog.

Puppies:  Eye Contact and Dominance by Barbara McNinch, Rottweiler owner and member of Dogtrain, Inc.

The eye contact question relates to leadership.  Yes, strong eye contact can help a dog understand you are displeased with something it has done.  However, only if the dogs knows and respects your leadership!  If a dog thinks he/she is the leader in the relationship, then strong eye contact could cause the dog to become aggressive instead of respond in a submissive manner.

If you react to a puppy's being out of control, etc. with harshness such as rolling him on his back and staring in his eyes, then he learns only one thing -- to fear you.  Fear is often the cause of early aggression in pups.  Rottweilers especially are likely to react to fear with a fight response -- intense growling and struggling.  In older dogs, who either don't know you or who believe they are leaders, a direct hard stare is a direct challenge!  He will react aggressively.  Staring, eye contact of all types, is important body language in a dog!

It is important to first teach puppies that looking at me is OK -- a friendly, warm thing.  I want my dogs to look at me when I am training and if they are afraid to do so, they won't be much of a worker.  When my puppy is sleepy or quiet, I sit or lie near him and talk softly about what a nice boy he is.  I stroke him with one or two fingers between his eyes in an upward motion.  I smile!  Isn't that nice?  In addition, when I fix his meals, I hold up the dish and smile.  I praise him for looking up at me and then feed.  Soon my puppy knows my happy, praising face and voice, and he can also begin reacting to my frown and my disgusted voice.

Puppies do not arrive on this earth understanding everything -- they must be taught.  To harshly punish or make hard eye contact first is unfair and bad leadership.  Dominance should not be handled with intimidation or violence.  From the day the puppy comes home, through handling exercises and shaping of behavior, you can train the dog to understand his place in your family order.  It can and should be done in a calm, rational way.  The dog who understands this order and accepts it is better able to discern and handle possible situations that arise when he must take over and be leader for a time.  A dog who has been intimidated into submitting, will usually react from fear and anxiety, which does not usually result in a positive outcome.

Is Your Dog TOO Bonded To You? by Frank Nelson

Professional handlers often can be heard to complain that a client's dog is difficult due to being too close to the owner.

In the obedience ring, especially in open stays, too close of a bonding can make for serious problems.

Day to day living with the dog that has bonded too close to its owner can be difficult.  My training assistant, Barb, owns such a dog.  The following are some of the problems that Barb has encountered with her first Rottweiler.

1. Out of sight stays in Open class are a major source of concern.  The dog breaks the stay to look for the owner.
2. If the owner leaves for any length of time, it upsets her dog.  She was away for six days in Florida for a horse show and the dog refused to eat and had other problems.
3. She must be present when the dog eats, otherwise the dog refuses food.

In other cases, problems arise when the dog is placed with a handler, since the dog is far too closely bonded to the owner to work well the handler.  Barb suspects that such close bonding comes from the owner incorporating the dog into each aspect of their life.  Barb's Rottweiler traveled everywhere with Barb including work.  Each sleeping and waking moment was spent with each other.  Controlling every aspect of the dog's life contributes to the problem.

The solution is often not simple, especially with the adult dog.  I have had some limited success by having handlers exchange dogs in my class with each other's permission.  The overly dependent dog learns to work with someone else.  Boarding the dog or perhaps having a friend keep the dog for a short period might also be helpful.

How Your Dog Trains You
by Joann M. Locher, M.S.

Every dog has certain needs, drives and desires.  When one first acquires a dog, the animal exhibits a great deal of trial and error behavior to determine what will "work" to get fulfillment.  Therefore, any touch, spoken word, food, toys, letting the dog out/in, etc. can serve as "positive reinforcement" because it reinforces (or strengthens) what the dog was doing at the time.  In other words, whatever behavior is occurring the moment the dog receives something it likes, is the behavior which is more likely to occur again.

Many pet owners avoid training because they think it is an unpleasant process in which they will be forced to jerk and yell at their dog in order to control him.  However, controlling your dog's behavior can be as simple as just using better timing for the same things you are doing now with your pet.

For example, if your dog nudges you and you pet him, you are rewarding nudging.  However, if you ignored him, you would be teaching your dog that sitting "pays."  With impeccable, consistent timing, your dog would, in surprisingly short time, begin to think that sitting is his command for you to pet him.

This approach is:

• simple to do
• takes no extra time
• a very pleasant way to modify the dog's behavior
• works quicker than you think

If you could "interview" a dog in an obedience class and ask, "What are you doing here?", the dog would probably say, "I'm training my owner to give me treats!  I just have to figure out which commands will work.  Currently, quietly lying down seems to be my best bet."

If you give your dog a cookie when he whines, I'll bet that he whines quite a bit.  Suppose you decide that you are only going to give him a cookie when he lays down.  Carry cookies in your pocket and point to the floor.  If he doesn't lay down, ignore him.  If he does, as soon as his elbows hit the deck, slip a cookie in his mouth and pleasantly say, "Down! Good."  If you are consistent, your dog will be terrific at lying down in no time!

To "shape" more complex behaviors, you would at first reward a very rough approximation of the desired behavior and as the dogs gets better, slowly raise your standards.  For example, if you want to teach "High Five" (a very high paw raise), you would kneel by your sitting dog with a treat hidden in your hand, held still in front of his nose.  Watch carefully as he tries to figure out what command he must give you to make you give him the treat.  The second he lifts one paw (even a little), slip the treat in his mouth while saying "High five!"

Remember, you have to be quick!  As he gets the idea that a paw raise "works," you can selectively reward higher and higher attempts.

If you pay closer attention to timing and give the dog what he wants ONLY when he does what you want, you will have a nicer dog.  Whether you realize it or not, you have already been "shaping" the dog's behavior, only you may have been inadvertently rewarding the wrong things.  Remember:  What you reward is what you will get!

Establishing Yourself As Pack Leader
Taken from People, Pooches & Problems by Job Michael Evans and Chesapeake Bay Relief & Rescue

The Alpha Role.  In a natural state, dogs would live their entire lives within the closely structure social order of their pack. While young, they would begin to learn the workings of the pack's social system and, as they grew, begin to establish their place within the pack's dominance hierarchy. Dominance, submissiveness, leadership, obeying others - these are all concepts that are understood by every dog. These are all concepts that you must understand as well if you are to relate you your dog in a successful manner.

Each pack has a leader, an individual who is dominant over all pack members. In wolf society, this individual is called the "alpha." This is the member who makes the decisions, who must be obeyed. This is the individual that you must be in your dog's eyes.  Here are some tips on establishing yourself as "alpha" or pack leader:

Showing Your Rottweiler
Originally written back in 1991 (3rd of a series) by Carol Kronsberg and Lori Gach for the ARK Newsletter, the information is still useful. 

When the judge finishes examining the dogs, he will ask each handler to move their dog individually.  If you are first in the ring, listen to the judge's instructions carefully.  Otherwise watch the dogs in front of you to see what pattern the judge is using.  If you are not familiar with the judge or his ring procedure, try to get to the show early, go to the ring where you will be showing and watch the judging if time permits. In moving your dog at an inside show, try to make sure the dog stays on the mat.  If your dog cuts corners or moves off the mat he may slip or slide.  Make sure your dog's head is facing forward.  If he turns his head, looks up at you or his handler it will affect his gait making him appear to move at an angle or 'sidewind.'  Practice moving your dog at home (or at training class) prior to showing to determine what speed he looks and moves his best.

When you have completed gaiting, watch the judge and make sure that when the last dog in your class is being moved that you have your dog stacked and ready for the judge.  If it is a very large class relax your dog and let him rest while the others are being gaited.  If it is an outdoor show and a warm or hot day, try to get your dog in the shade or under the tent while you are waiting.  Summer shows required extra attention for Rottweilers.  Take water, spray bottles, ice, wet towels to keep your dog comfortable and safe while showing and traveling.

In very large classes, the judge may make a 'cut' and select some of the dogs he wishes to keep in the ring while dismissing the remainder.  If your dog makes the cut and stays in the ring, keep him alert and stacked ready for the judge to see.

If your dog should be second in this class, remember to stay at ringside with your dog.  If the Winner of the point should come from your class, you will take your dog back into the ring and be eligible to win the Reserve.

If the judge asks the exhibitors to stack their dogs turned toward him to show their fronts, place the dogs front feet on the front edge of the mat at an inside show.

When showing your Rottweiler, wear lighter colored slacks, skirts or dresses which will help your dog "show up" in the ring.  The contrast of the dark dog against a lighter background will enhance his outline.  If your dog has a pretty head turn it slightly toward the judge, using bait if necessary.

Experiment with your what your dog enjoys most as bait.  Some suggestions besides liver, are cheese and chicken.  Some dogs prefer a toy and "show" better for a ball or squeaky toy rather than food.

It may seem basic, but it is important to make sure to use a proper collar that fits well.  It is not necessary to have a large link or heavy chain on most Rottweilers.  A good quality, strong, smaller link or black nylon cord will look neater and give excellent control if positioned correctly.  The collar MUST be kept well up the neck behind the ears for the handler's optimum control.  If the collar is down the neck the dog has the leverage.

Many young Rottweilers go through a "teenage" stage when they become aware of other dogs, especially males.  While this is normal it can be a very trying time for the handler.  Watch that your dog does not get good eye contact with another dog to avoid challenge situations.  When waiting at ringside maintain control on a short lead. It is not unusual to see dogs at the end of a six foot lead sniffing others and the handler is chatting away, totally unaware.  Practice "defensive driving"  - watching out for the other other guy's dog is a good practice.  People with smaller breeds seem to frequently walk their dogs right under Rottweiler noses at shows and then comment to their dog, "Watch out for that Big Dog honey, it might EAT you!".

If you are having problems showing a dog, an AKC ring is NOT the place to train a dog!  Work out problems in training classes and fun matches to avoid the possibility of being excused or disqualified,.  If the dog is your baby and thoroughly spoiled, it might be a good idea to hire a handler to teach the dog respect and how to work within the show routine.

Some new Rottweiler owners are not prepared for the size and enthusiasm of a young teenage male.  The dogs can be a handful with a high energy level.  They go through a macho, hackling, jumping at other dogs stage.  It is very important to correct this behavior as soon as it starts.

Showing dogs can be a fun and rewarding hobby.  After the obvious necessity of having a dog, the next requirement should be a sense of humor.  Considering Rottweilers are usually the first class in the morning, particularly if you are anywhere from two hundred to four hundred miles from home and have to drive all night, find the show grounds, exercise and groom the dogs, get dressed, get to ringside, show and hopefully win -- what! -- invisible point!!! A sense of humor is a definite asset.  Fortunately most Rottweilers have a great sense of humor and love to travel.  They happily indulge their owners showing as a tradeoff for companionship and the benefits of the "bait."

In traveling to dog shows it is handy to carry along a crate as a place for the dog to relax.  A show collar, lead, towels, water from home or bottled water., a bowl, cooler for bait, meds for an upset tummy and diarrhea, a roll of paper towels, a bag of ice if warm weather, a can opener, a small coffee pot to heat water can be handy, a sun screen tarp to cover the crate and folding chairs are essential.

Shopping the booths at the shows can add all kinds of neat additions to your "tack box."  Shampoos, brushes, and "tacky paw" for slippery floors are good extras.  And don't forget A raincoat, mud shoes and an extra jacket are

The bottom line is to have fun!  Enjoy your dog!  If you do not win today, there is always another show.  Good luck with your special Rottweiler!

Versatile Companion Dog (VCD)

Effective January 1, 2001 the American Kennel Club is recognizing dogs that show versatility in Companion Events by earning a combination of titles in obedience, agility and tracking.  The AKC will permit the use of the letters following the name of each registered dog that completes titles as follows:

Thoughts on Desensitization & Aggression
by Barbara McNinch, Rottweiler owner and member of Dogtrain, Inc.

Preface: Grumbly pups, scared or nervous dogs, etc.  Desensitizing is very important work when you have a dog with these behaviors.  Instead of arbitrarily punishing (bad leadership) a dog with a behavioral problem, try teaching with handling and desensitizing first.

Growling or grumbling when handled or when you approach:  This involves counter conditioning the approach of you or anyone else.  Using food, you approach the and feed it.  Next you approach the dog and pet it on the chest and neck and then feed it.  Next you might reach for its collar or grab the skin on the scruff and treat it.  You are desensitizing the fear/frustration involved with the approach or touch of its neck and head.  We have successfully modified behavior in one session at our facility with dogs that attempt to bite, growl or otherwise intimidate owners or visitors. In one case, we literally could not get closer than a few feet to the dog before he bristled and growled.  We started just a foot back from his "space" and started tossing small treats before he started growling.  He was praised as well as conditioned to the word "yes."  Within minutes the dog was approaching, getting a "yes" and a treat.  Next, he tried offering a sit behavior, which was yes'd and treated.  This week, we saw him for the second time.  He came in the building with a happy attitude and growled at no one!  He is well on his way to being a good household companion.  In addition to the desensitizing, he has worn a leash and color (GL) around the house all week.  This week, the owner can safely pick up the leash and handle the dog for guests, downs by their side for leadership, etc.

The dog is taught to always sit when approached by anyone.  All good, calm behavior is praised.  You also stop giving the dog "unwarranted" attention.  Many people just praise their dogs for absolutely nothing.  The dog becomes convinced he is the King/Queen!  He "deserves" praise always and for nothing.  This type of dog feels very comfortable with letting you know when he has had enough petting or hugging by growling or snapping!  You must turn the tables by making sure he earns your praise and attention.  If he comes to you and nudges or paws you for attention, ignore it.  Turn away.  Say nothing.  If he sits, praise and pet briefly.  You decide when to pet this dog.  The dog must sit when they approach and remain in the sitting position.  If they get up, all praise and petting stop.  It is also helpful to have the dog get up and move around after being petted, perhaps to chase a ball that the person rolls or you roll.  This releases pent up energy and can dispel grumpiness or aggression.

In the case above that I was describing, the dog was fed treats by the owner as soon as the doorbell rang or a stranger approached.  This keeps the dog calm in the face of what is usually a situation fraught with tension.  The new person is kept at a distance at first.  The dog is "yes'd" and given a treat for looking at, sniffing or touching the person without growling.

Anticipate when the aggression may occur:  Frustration is the leading cause of most aggression.  For instance -- new learning experiences, feeding groups of animals, introducing new members to the pack (human or animal), asking for many behaviors without reinforcing the good behavior, fear, sexual arousal, and using punishment.  These all lead to frustration which can cause growling and biting.  If you anticipate these and ask the dog to engage in a behavior it knows how to do (sit, down), you will modify the incorrect behavior.  That is why you tell the dog to sit and stay before the person approaches and praise and reinforce the desired behavior.  Keep it short at first, in order to make sure the undesired behavior does not occur, in order for the dog to succeed.  Basically you are rewiring the dog's reactions.

Why punishment doesn't work:  In many cases, people will smack the dog for what are known as antecedents or cues to the behavior that may follow -- i.e., the dog growls, he gets smacked.  The punishment works alright, but it works to extinguish the very behaviors that help you read your dog!  The dog stops growling, or nipping -- instead, he goes straight to the big guns --- biting!  While you should not retreat from a growl, as this gives the dog confidence that he is scaring you, you should also not react with anger or fear.  Use the information the dog is giving you to understand where his "space" starts so that you can begin your modification work.

Instead, give that alternate command or action that will prevent the unwanted, final behavior!  One thing that works very well is isolation.  Simply place the dog in its crate for five minutes or so.  If you dog doesn't know how to sit, some when called, or lie down on command (the first command!), the start teaching him now.  Use food (100% reward) to condition his response so that you are confident he will do it immediately.  Remember this:  puppies are almost in a constant state of frustration, or fear, since they are learning new things all the time.  That is why it is important to take them many places and do many things and have a positive time while doing it.  It is also important to provide exercise for the dog in order to keep adrenaline energy low.  Exercise consist of long walks, recall games, tug games, swimming, etc.  The tired puppy/dog is the dog who has less impetus to argue with you!

Pylon Heeling
by Max Parris 

Pylon heeling is a system I invented many years ago to help in teaching trainers to train their dogs to stay in the heel position for at least thirty five seconds and to retain the command word HEEL for that time. This system also helps condition the dog to be attentive to make right and left turns without lagging on the right turn or bumping on the left turn. The system also teaches the dog to stay in the heel position while doing figure eights. Now if that is not enough, the system also is designed to accomplish the transfer from on lead to off lead.

The following is a layout of the pylons. What are pylons you ask? Pylons are small traffic cones that can be found along most construction area. If you notice I said found, I did not say to take them!   Check with K-Mart in the sports section for the small ones.

The spacing between all pylons is 15 feet. The spacing between the odd number and the even numbers is 15 feet.

LEVEL ONE:  The main point for the trainer to remember is that in this level the trainer must create a positive atmosphere for the dog. A lot of praise and encouragement. Lets start at the beginning.  DO NOT make any corrections in this level. The main concern is to have an eager, happy, tail wagging dog. Start the exercise with the dog on lead and you with four pieces of hot dog in your right hand.  You will be facing the #1 pylon, do not show the food to the dog, command HEEL and as you start toward the #1 pylon praise the dog . As you approach 
the first pylon the dog will be between you and the pylon. Stay to your right of the pylon. As you arrive at the #1 Pylon command HEEL, start your turn around the pylon, this will be a left turn. The dog will probably bump into your left leg as you make the turn. Do not make a correction! You are now starting toward the #2 pylon. Stay to your left of the #2 pylon. As you start toward the #2 pylon, show the food to the dog, as you approach the #2 pylon command HEEL, keep showing the food to the dog as you make a right turn around the #2 pylon.  After you and the dog have made the right turn around the #2 pylon, give the dog the bite of food. You are now approaching the #3 pylon. DO NOT show the food to the dog. As you approach the #3 pylon, command HEEL and make the left turn around the #3 pylon. Do not correct if dog bumps you in the turn. You are now starting toward the #4 pylon.  Show the food to the dog. As you arrive at the #4 pylon, command HEEL and show the food with great vigor. The dog should stay in the heel position as you make the right turn around the #4 pylon. AFTER you have made the complete turn around pylon #4, give the food to the dog as a reward for a good job. DO NOT SHOW THE FOOD AS YOU START TOWARD #5 PYLON. You are now starting toward the #5 pylon. As you arrive at #5 pylon, command HEEL then make the left turn around the #5 pylon. DO NOT make any correction if the dog bumps as you make the turn around the pylon. As you start toward the #6 pylon show the food to the dog. Show the food strongly as you approach the pylon. Command HEEL as you arrive at the pylon. Keep showing the food to the dog during the turn around the pylon. After you and the dog make the turn, give the food to the dog as a reward for a good job. DO NOT SHOW THE FOOD TO THE DOG AS YOU START TOWARD #7 pylon. As you arrive at the #7 pylon, command HEEL, then make the left turn around the #7 Pylon...no corrections. As you start toward the #8 pylon show the food to the dog. When you arrive at the #8 pylon show the food to the dog and command HEEL. Show the food to the dog during the right turn around the #8 pylon. After you and the dog make the turn give the food to the dog for a good job. NOTE: If you notice that the only place you gave the food was on the #2-4-6-8 pylons. Why you ask? If you notice the even number pylons are like the outside turns on the figure eight exercise and the odd number pylons are like the inside pylons on the figure eight. Get the idea?  You are conditioning the dog to pick up speed on the even number pylons and slow down on the odd  number pylons. The reason for the heel command at each pylon is that you are conditioning the dog to retain the command HEEL between pylons. Train level one for about seven days. You are now ready to try level two.

LEVEL TWO: In this level you are going to withhold ALL PRAISE BETWEEN THE PYLONS. You are asking the dog to retain the command HEEL and retain the heel position through the eight pylons without and help. The trainer will STILL give the command HEEL at each pylon and will STILL show the food to the dog when approaching the #2-- #4--#6--#8 pylons. When approaching the #1--#3--#5--7 pylons you will still command HEEL.   NOW if the dog bumps your left leg as you make the turn around the pylon, command 'No!' and make a correction with your right knee or foot depending on the size of the dog.

(Note to trainers about Training Effect: When making corrections you should have a plan -- not just make corrections and let it go. Training Effect or 'TE' as I call it, is a system for finding out if your corrections had any effect on the dog. TE can be used throughout your training.)

In this case TE is applied in the following manner: As you approach the #1 pylon, command HEEL, if the dog bumps your leg when you make the turn around the #1--#3--#5--#7, THEN command 'No!', then make the proper correction as stated above. No matter what happens when you approach the #3 pylon, first command HEEL, then command 'No!' and make the proper correction. As you approach the #5 pylon, command HEEL,  then withhold any corrections. Why you ask?  You are checking the see if the dog will not bump on the #5 pylon. This will tell you if your corrections on the #1 and #3 pylons had any effect on the dog.  Stay at this level until the dog does not bump or lag at any pylons. When the dog has learned not to bump or lag, I stay at this level for four more days to make sure the dog is stable. 

LEVEL THREE. Start the dog by commanding HEEL, then do not command HEEL, do not praise or give the dog any food until the #6 pylon. At that point, show the food and command HEEL.  After completing the turn around the pylon, give the food to the dog. Finish the rest of the pylons.

LEVEL FOUR: This is a test level on lead. Make no correction. First command HEEL to start the dog, then do not say anything to the dog until you finish the pylons. Why? You are testing to see if the dog can retain the command HEEL and stay in the heel position for the entire pylon heeling. When the dog is able to successfully complete Level Four for four days, you are ready to start the transfer to the off lead training (next). 

LEVEL FIVE: Level five is Level ONE, except it is off lead. 

LEVEL SIX: Level six is Level TWO, except it is off lead.

LEVEL SEVEN: Level seven is Level THREE, except it is off lead. 

LEVEL EIGHT: Level eight is Level FOUR, except it is off lead. Stay at each level for a minimum of four days. 

Anytime there is a problem off lead go back to level #2 or #3 until you can work out the problem.